The Cheese Lady
May 30, 2006
Letter 14

Elle is 5 weeks old. Got to tell you, they call her
PeeWomp, short for Elle-pee-womp, which
translated from kid talk means "elephant".
Last week at the market was busy.
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Let's revisit the cheddars.
Tipperary Cheddar
Since the
Dairygold Co-operative Society came into existence in 1919,
the cheddar cheeses
of Mitchelstown (Baile Mhistéala in Irish),
County Tipperary, have been the most
popular choice in Irish homes.
As the trusted market leader of Irish cheese,
Mitchelstown has always been eager to embrace innovation and in 1932,
it was the
first dairy company ever to open a modern cheese plant.
Central to the success
of making full flavored cheeses
is of course having a regular supply of its most
important raw material,
the finest Irish milk.
The land of Tipperary is renowned
for its dairy produce due to the many green pastures,
clear waters and the mild
climate it enjoys.
As a result, Tipperary Cheedar, aged over twelve months,
has
a rich creamy texture and a delicious sharp taste.
CantaletCantal is one of the oldest
French Cheeses,
predating both Roquefort (11th Century) and Livarot (13th
Century).
In fact, Pliny the Elder mentions Cantal in his “Historia Naturalis”
written in the 1st Century AD.
Cantal was originally produced by putting the
curd into “le Formage”, a wooden cylinder,
which is believed to be the origin
for the French word for cheese.
Named after the Cantal Mountains in Auvergne
this cheese has been dear to the French throughout history.
For example, in
medieval times it was the courtly custom to send a gift of cheese
to impress or
to people one admired.
Cantal is made from pasteurized cow’s milk with the curd
being heated before pressing.
This AOC cheese has a smooth grayish-brown rind
with a smooth, pale yellow, close textured interior.
Cantal has a milky aroma, a
nutty flavor with a hint
of tangy butteriness and a slightly acidic finish.
Aged
from 3-9 months, it is prone to blue mold (fleur de bleu)
which the French
gladly eat, but can also be cut off if this is not your preference.
Try Cantal
in a French ploughman’s platter,
in soups or sauces, or to flavor muffins or
gratins.
But, ignore this description and take advice from a French poet
“ to
elaborate on Cantal is an error of taste; it is all simplicity.”
Fiscalini CheddarAccording to Fiscalini Farms, there are only ten farmstead
cheesemakers
producing cow's milk cheese in the state of California.
The
California Milk Advisory Board defines farmstead as
"Artisan-style cheeses made
from milk obtained from animals
located on the farm where the cheese is made."
As farmstead cheesemakers,
Fiscalini can control the entire process from
beginning to end.
Fiscalini Farms became the first commercial dairy in the
United States
to receive animal-welfare certification.
All-natural ingredients
used in making the cheese.
Fiscalini cheddar is white, naturally as nature
intended cheddar cheese to be.
(Yellow and orange cheddars have been
artificially colored.)
Old
Quebec Vintage Cheddar
(Cow's milk,
Canada)
An extra-sharp cheddar (aged at least three years),
currently made in March of 2001,
with a smooth
texture, full-bodied flavor and tangy finish.
Not as crumbly as some aged
cheddars and thus easier to work with.
Fabulous with a ripe pear, a piece of
apple pie,
a juicy burger or grilled between two slices of crusty bread.
Also
terrific on its own with a fruity red wine.
Liquid
Pairings:
Cabernet
Syrah
All's well.
See you at the market.
Kathleen